This job is quite an awkward one for 2 reasons. The bolts are prone to rusting and are hard to get off and the P-brackets around the bushes are a sod to get on

You will need:

New ARB bushes (obviously)

12mm spanner or rachet

A scissor and/or G clamp

14mm rachet (possibly)

12mm stainless bolts (optional)

Here are the tools you will definitely need, along with a replacement bush. Here we have a longer-life poly bush. If you are replacing the bush with a replacement stock bush slap yourself in the head and buy a pair of poly items. They will last longer than the Mitsubishi rubber ones before degrading, so why would you not use them? I also have a G-clamp and a scissor clamp. If you only have one of these you can get by, but it's slightly easier with one of each. Now we're all tooled up, lets get on with it.

Here is the offending item, duely covered in rust! This is the passenger side bush with the rear suspension and exhaust showing too. The two vertical strips either side of the bracket held on by the bolt is the edges of the actual bush, which is under said bracket. You'll notice that the brackets on each side face a different direction. I have no idea why, but they do. It doesn't affect the instuctions though and either side works the same.

Looking at the back of the bracket connecting the ARM to the chassis we can see that the P-bracket used to hold the ARB bush on is only bolted at the bottom. The top is hooked through a slot in the other bracket. One of the reasons the job is so difficult. The nut you can see here is not for unscrewing. It has been welded to the bracket and vigorous attempts to undo it can cause you to split your 12mm socket. Trust me! Instead undo the head on the other side. The bracket is attached to the chassis with two 14mm bolts. If you are having real difficulties undoing the bolt, you may find it easier if you first detach the bracket from the chassis to give more maneuverability.

Once the bolt has been removed (or the head ground off and the thread drilled out!) the bracket can be removed. Sometimes it will loosen by itself, other times it needs a bit of persuasion with a flat bladed screw-driver before it goes with a ping. Once the bracket is released you will be able to move the Anti-Roll Bar back and forwards, but not up and down. Take the new bush and follow the supplied instructions about any supplied lubricants. If it's particularly cold it can help if the bush is left is hot water to soften it up. Place the bush over the ARB as close to the position of the old one as possible. Place the P-bracket over the bush and ensure that it lines up with the bolt hole and slot in the other bracket before continuing.

Use the scissor clamp to push the bracket onto the new bush as far as possible. Make sure that one side of the clamp sits on the flat of the bush and the other on the curve of the P-bracket. Once tightly in place, rotate the bush on the bar so that the hook can go through the slot on the chassis bracket. Again, if this proves really difficult, it can be easier to undo the bolts on the chassis bracket and attach it then.

Then carfully place the G-clamp to that it is pressing on the curve of the P-bracket and the back of the chassis bracket. Be careful not to cover the slot on the chassis bracket and pushing the P-bracket back out. Slowly crank the clamp shut until you can insert the bolt and tighten it with your fingers. At this point you can remove the G-clamp and tighten the bolt back up with a rachet or spanner. If you removed the chassis bracket at any point you will now need to attach that too. These can be quite tricky because they feel like they are going in when they are not. However, if you have actually found the hole for the bolt it will feel much more positive.

And there we have the finished article. On the left of the picture you will see the rear droplinks. It can be wise to do the bushes on these at the same time as the ARB. I haven't, but will expand this guide to incorporate that when I do.